Little India, Singapore

Little India grew up around Serangoon Road in the nineteenth century and is still the heart of Singapore’s Tamil community. Brightly painted shophouses and street murals line the lanes, flower sellers string jasmine and marigold outside the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, and the smell of filter coffee and spices drifts out of the doorways.

It is the easiest place in the city for pure-vegetarian South Indian meals, sweets and snacks, and for shopping: saris and gold jewellery, spices, and the sprawling Mustafa Centre, open late into the night for electronics, cosmetics and groceries.

Go in the late afternoon and stay for dinner. During Deepavali the streets are strung with lights and the area is especially lively. Dress modestly and remove your shoes before entering the temples.