Swayambhunath Stupa

Swayambhunath crowns a wooded hill on the western edge of Kathmandu and is one of the oldest religious sites in the valley. Its white stupa and gilded spire, painted with the Buddha’s eyes, are surrounded by shrines, smaller stupas and temples used by both Buddhists and Hindus.

Visitors call it the Monkey Temple because of the troops of macaques that live on the hill. A steep stone stairway climbs to the stupa past carved Buddhas and prayer wheels, and from the top there are wide views across the city to the surrounding hills and, on clear days, the Himalaya.

A road comes most of the way up the other side, so senior travellers can avoid most of the climb. Keep food out of sight, as the monkeys are quick to grab it, and stay for the evening light over the valley.