Muttrah Souq and Corniche

Muttrah is Muscat’s old harbour district, and its souq is one of the oldest markets in the Arab world. Under a wooden roof, narrow lanes wind past stalls of frankincense and clay burners, silver khanjar daggers, pashminas, dates and sticky Omani halwa.

Outside, the Corniche curves along the bay, lined with latticed merchant houses and overlooked by the 16th-century Muttrah Fort. Dhows and fishing boats bob in the harbour, and the promenade fills with families as the heat drops. A short walk along the seafront brings you to the fish market, busiest early in the morning, and to the Bait Al Baranda museum of Muscat’s history.

Many shops close in the early afternoon and reopen later, so come around four or five o’clock and stay for sunset along the seafront. Bargaining is expected, and always good-humoured.