Jebel Akhdar

Jebel Akhdar means “Green Mountain”, and after the bare rock of the drive up, its terraces of pomegranate, walnut and apricot trees feel like another country. Villages such as Al Ayn and Ash Shirayjah cling to the rim of a deep canyon, linked by old footpaths.

In late March and April the Damask roses bloom on the terraces and villagers distil rose water in traditional clay ovens. Summer days stay pleasantly cool up here, while winter nights can drop close to freezing.

The road up is steep, and a police checkpoint lets only four-wheel-drive vehicles through, so we arrange a 4x4 with a driver. Stay a night at one of the mountain resorts for canyon views at sunrise. Bring a warm layer, even in spring.