Hoan Kiem Lake and the Old Quarter

Hoan Kiem Lake, the Lake of the Returned Sword, is the heart of Hanoi. The red wooden Huc Bridge leads to Ngoc Son Temple on a small island, and the little Turtle Tower stands on another islet in the middle of the water. Early in the morning the shore fills with locals doing tai chi and exercise classes.

North of the lake, the Old Quarter is a maze of narrow streets, many named after the goods once sold there, packed with shops, street-food stalls, temples and tall, narrow tube houses. A cyclo ride is a relaxed way to take it in, and on weekend evenings the streets around the lake become pedestrian zones.

End the day at a water puppet show near the lake, a traditional art from the rice paddies of the Red River Delta that children especially enjoy. When crossing the road, walk steadily and let the motorbikes flow around you.