Alfama and Tram 28

Alfama is Lisbon's oldest neighbourhood, a tangle of steep lanes, stairways and tiny squares below São Jorge Castle that largely survived the great earthquake of 1755. Laundry hangs from balconies, tiles shine on house fronts and, in the evenings, fado singers perform in small restaurants.

Tram 28 rattles through it in vintage wooden cars, climbing hills that would tire anyone on foot. Hop off at the Portas do Sol viewpoint for the view over the rooftops to the river, then walk up to São Jorge Castle.

Tram 28 is crowded at midday and popular with pickpockets, so ride early in the morning and keep bags in front of you. A fado dinner makes a memorable evening for couples, and in June the Festival of St Anthony fills the lanes with music, street parties and paper decorations.