Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland

Rotorua sits on one of the most active geothermal fields in the world, and Wai-O-Tapu, about 30 minutes south of town, shows it at its most colourful. Walking tracks lead past collapsed craters, sulphur ledges and the Champagne Pool, a steaming hot spring edged with bright orange mineral deposits.

Arrive before 10.15am to see the Lady Knox Geyser erupt, then walk the main loop, which takes about an hour and is mostly flat. A large bubbling mud pool sits just down the road and is worth a short stop.

The smell of sulphur is strong but harmless. In the evening, Rotorua's Māori cultural centres offer a welcome ceremony, songs, haka and a hāngī feast cooked in the ground, with vegetarian dishes available on request.